How To Make Bias Binding

Mastering the Art of Bias Binding: A Comprehensive Guide

Bias binding, those elegantly sloped strips of fabric used to finish seams, neaten edges, and add a touch of professional flair to your sewing projects, might seem intimidating at first. But with a little understanding and practice, creating your own bias binding becomes a surprisingly straightforward and rewarding process. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from selecting your fabric to applying the finished binding, ensuring you’re equipped to confidently tackle even the most intricate projects. Learn how to make bias binding of varying widths, and discover the secrets to achieving perfectly crisp and professional results every time.

Introduction: Why Make Your Own Bias Binding?

While pre-made bias binding is readily available, making your own offers several significant advantages:

• Precise Matching: You can perfectly match your binding fabric to your project, creating a cohesive and seamless look. Pre-made options often come in limited color and fabric choices.
• Custom Widths: Pre-made bias binding usually comes in standard widths. Making your own allows you to create bindings of any width you need for your specific project, from delicate ¼" to substantial 1" or even wider bindings.
• Cost-Effectiveness: For larger projects, making your own bias binding can be more economical than purchasing pre-made options, especially when using fabric scraps.
• Fabric Selection: The sky's the limit! You have complete control over the fabric type, from cotton and linen to silk and even heavier weight fabrics like canvas.
• Enhanced Skill: Learning to make bias binding significantly expands your sewing skills, transforming you from a beginner sewer to a more confident and versatile craftsperson.

Step-by-Step Guide to Making Bias Binding

This guide focuses on creating single-fold bias binding, the most common and versatile type. We’ll cover cutting the bias strips, pressing them, joining the ends, and finally, applying the binding to your project.

1. Choosing Your Fabric and Determining the Width:

• Fabric Selection: Select a fabric that complements your project. Lighter weight fabrics are easier to work with for beginners. Consider the weight of your main fabric and select a binding fabric of a similar weight for a professional finish.
• Calculating Binding Width: The final width of your finished binding will be about half the width of your cut strip. For example, to create ½" finished binding, cut your strips 1" wide. Remember to add seam allowance if needed, usually ¼". Common widths include:
  • ¼" finished: Ideal for delicate projects and finishing seams.
  • ½" finished: Versatile and widely used for most projects.
  • ¾" finished: Provides more substantial coverage and is great for thicker fabrics.
  • 1" finished or more: Suitable for heavier fabrics or projects that require a more robust finish.

2. Cutting the Bias:

• Understanding the Bias: The bias is the diagonal direction of the fabric, running at a 45-degree angle to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric). Cutting on the bias gives the binding its characteristic flexibility and drape.
• Cutting Method 1: The Square Method:
  • Cut your fabric into squares. The size of the squares will depend on the desired length of your bias binding strips and the width you calculated in Step 1. A larger square yields a longer strip. Typical square sizes range from 4" x 4" to 12" x 12" or larger.
  • Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner of each square.
  • Cut along the diagonal lines. You should end up with two bias triangles from each square.
• Cutting Method 2: The Continuous Strip Method:
  • This method is efficient for longer lengths of binding. Fold your fabric selvedge to selvedge in half and cut off any uneven edges.
  • Cut off a strip along the diagonal at your desired width, working your way around the fabric. This produces one continuous bias strip, which will need to be joined later.

3. Pressing and Joining Bias Strips:

• Pressing: Once all your bias strips are cut, carefully press each one with a hot iron to remove any creases. This helps create a smooth and even binding.
• Joining the Ends (if using the square method): Take two bias triangles. Place them right sides together, matching the cut edges. Sew a scant ¼" seam. Press the seam open.
• Joining the Ends (if using the continuous method): Overlap the end of the strip by 1-2", matching the raw edges. Sew a diagonal seam. Trim the excess fabric. Press the seam open.

4. Creating the Single-Fold Binding:

• Pressing in half: Press each bias strip in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Create a crisp crease down the center.

5. Applying the Bias Binding:

• Attaching the Binding (to a raw edge): Pin the binding to the raw edge of your project, with the raw edge of the binding aligned with the raw edge of your project. Stitch close to the folded edge of the binding.
• Enclosing the Binding: Fold the binding over the seam, encasing the raw edge. Stitch in the ditch (in the seam line), or slightly in from the folded edge to secure the binding.
• Mitering Corners: For mitered corners, fold the binding at a 45-degree angle at the corner and stitch across the folded edge. Trim the excess and press the corner for a neat finish. This might require practice.
• Joining Binding Ends: When applying to a continuous seam, neatly overlap the ends of the binding by 1-2". Sew a diagonal seam and trim the excess for a neat and invisible join.

Different Types of Bias Binding

While single-fold binding is common, let's explore other variations:

• Double-Fold Bias Binding: This method creates a more durable and professional finish, particularly useful for projects that require additional strength or reinforcement. The process involves creating two folded edges before applying.
• Hong Kong Binding: A decorative binding technique frequently used on curved seams, where a bias strip is wrapped around the edge and stitched, leaving the edge neatly concealed and adding a decorative element.
• Self-Binding: A method involving using a piece of the garment's own fabric to create the binding. This is ideal for seamless integration of the binding.

Troubleshooting and FAQs

• My bias binding is wavy: This often results from uneven cutting or pressing. Ensure your cuts are precise and consistently press your strips.
• My binding is too tight or too loose: Ensure you’ve calculated the width correctly and account for stretching during application.
• How do I make bias binding from a small scrap of fabric? Use the square method, making the most of your available material. Smaller squares will produce shorter strips, which can be joined together.
• Can I use fusible interfacing with my bias binding? Yes! Using a light weight fusible interfacing can help stabilize the binding and give it a crisper finish.

Scientific Explanation: Why Bias Cut is Important

The bias cut's unique properties stem from the fabric's inherent weave structure. Warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns have different degrees of elasticity. Cutting on the bias creates a diagonal orientation of these yarns, maximizing their inherent stretch and minimizing the pulling forces that can lead to distortion. This makes bias-cut fabric more drapable, allowing it to conform to curves and shape without pulling or stretching unevenly.

Conclusion: Embracing the Beauty of Handmade Details

Creating your own bias binding elevates your sewing projects to a new level of craftsmanship. While it might seem daunting initially, mastering this skill brings immense satisfaction and opens up a world of creative possibilities. With practice, you’ll find yourself confidently producing perfectly pressed, impeccably finished projects that showcase your dedication to detail and your growing expertise in sewing. So gather your fabrics, grab your rotary cutter, and embark on this rewarding journey – the beautifully finished results will speak for themselves.